I’ve tasted a lot of Champagne over the past few months, and have more of an opinion on it than I have done for quite some time. “Overlooked from an investment point of view” is what the moneymen have been saying for a while. Overlooked from a vinous point of view is what I say, at the same time wondering just how much longer the money men will be around for.
One of the best early vinolent posts was this. Well, at least I think so. And reading it now I feel like a man looking at his former self. I know a bit more now. More to come on this but in the meantime a brilliant tasting, courtesy of the very nice chaps at Corney & Barrow, and hosted by Didier Depond, President of both Delamotte and Salon.
Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, NV (magnum)
Base wine is the 2006. Each “batch” gets about 10-15% reserve wine. Lovely rich nose. A bit special. Brioche. Proper. Rich and fine mousse. Complex and rich yet fresh at the same time. All about the freshness. Good.
2004 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs
Tiny bubbles. Floral, very delicate and precise nose. Some richesse further in. And this is very vinous in the mouth. Lemon. Grapefruit. Herbs? Freshness and richesse in the same place. Gets chunkier in the finish. Excellent.
2002 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs
A little bit waxy on the nose. Richer. Some development. Some caramel. Butter. And again in the mouth. Foody. Very serious. Tiny bubbles again and this is very, very vinous again.
2000 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, Collection
Not many bottles of this and it is/was exclusively for the Japanese market, which is a serious one for Delamotte & Salon. Some fresh mushroom creaminess on the nose. A herby edge. And quite saline and mineral in the mouth. This is proper wine. Love it.
1999 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, Collection
Richesse and a little more weight here. Sunny vintage. Tiny bubbles again. Developed. Very soft texture in the mouth. This really has a great deal to it. Very good.
1991 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, Collection
Bubbles still here. A touch of earth on the nose. Getting there. And soft and old and rich in the mouth. Keeps on. Retains tautness in the finish. Very fine structure here. Pinpoint. I like these.
1983 Delamotte Brut, Collection (magnum)
Disgorged January 2012. Getting golden in colour. A very fine and gentle mousse. A special vintage: very rainy then a beautiful September. And in the mouth a beautiful mature ripeness. Almost Burgundian (red). 0 dosage. Excellent.
1970 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, Collection (magnum)
Very developed. A hint of mushroom, sous-bois. Love it. And gamey richesse in the mouth. Really very impressive. Retains its delicacy. I really like this.
1964 Delamotte Brut, Collection (magnum)
A touch smokey again. Ripe. Slightly orangey. And again in the mouth. A touch of fishiness. Very good again. Excellent. Perfectly ripe: Brie just sliding off the plate.
Thank you Corney & Barrow and, a relevant aside: there is one way to learn about wine, and that is to taste it. Thank you again.