2013 Bordeaux: out of the traps

Firstly: let’s put this barrel-tasting thing into perspective: Late last year I was in Bordeaux.  The director of a fairly high-profile chateau was showing me around their new, or at least almost-new, almost-finished, winery.  We walked past the 2013 vintage, which was just going into its malolactic fermentation.  There wasn’t much of it, and most […]

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See you next Tuesday

A brief post: time is of the essence.  Which is rather the point here. A few months back, a customer commented to me that fine wine had become “just another poorly run commodity market”. At the time I thought this a pretty decent comment, filed it for later use, and carried on. He was referring […]

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2011 Ch. Cos d’Estournel, St Estephe

There’s nothing like a week in Bordeaux if you need your cynicism topped up.  I rarely need this, indeed I need frequent trips to Burgundy to do the opposite – like blood pressure medication – and after a week tasting 2011s and, more relevantly, listening to chateau proprietors and managers trying to sell them, I […]

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2011 Bordeaux

In the last few years the noise surrounding a Bordeaux en-primeur release has got louder and louder.  We’ve always had the merchants shouting – this is fair enough: they’re trying to sell something – though we now have the press, both the specialist wine media and the mainstream media, shouting too.  The mainstream press like […]

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