A sense of place

One of the most famous, most photographed, spots in the vinous world is, probably, the bottom left corner of the Romanée-Conti vineyard.  There are probably a couple of tourists there now.  I wonder what they’re looking at?  The inscription on the wall?  The vines?  The soil?  Themselves?  I wonder what they’re thinking. Drive up past […]

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2014 Duhart-Milon

2014 Duhart-Milon was released last week.  Working on margins that make a wine merchant wonder why they didn’t work harder at school, it is offered in the UK at £400 per dozen bottles in bond.  Which is €42 a bottle off the negociants. Even with well-bought euros the margin struggles to get into two figures.  […]

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2014 Bordeaux: my top three

In spite of its failings – which are many – I love en-primeur.  The excitement of a new wine.  The birth, if you like, of wines that will develop into something so much more than juice.  1996 Latour was at this stage once, as was 1982 Pichon-Lalande.  Just as my son could once fit into […]

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Three bottles: Hew Blair

I remain intrigued by the question of who knows what and who doesn’t in the UK wine trade.  Tasting, talking, drinking and working with the former camp has taught me most of what I know. I spent 2003 & 2004 working on the other side of St James’s Street: the side where the traffic now […]

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The Gambler

What do you do for a living? I used to dread this question. Not that I’m ashamed of what I do – I love it, and I know that many of my friends and customers are envious of a job which they believe is simply getting lashed up all day. No, I used to dread […]

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